French Wine Society, World in Red, White, and Pink

For me, this session was the highlight of the conference. I am going to break it into 2 separate postings. This started at 0830 with 11 wonderful rose wines from Tavel. Kelly McAuliffe was the presenter and did an absolutely spectacular job. He is a dynamic speaker who gave a focused and imminently cogent discourse on Tavel and Chateauneuf du Pape. He is based outside of Avignon and his passion for the region is apparent.

Tavel. This AOC is the rose wine of kings, or at least a certain Louis. The AOC only is allowed to produce rose. This is a rose de saignee, and skin contact ranges from 24 to 48 hours. The principle grape is Grenache, with a minimum of 15% Cinsault. Seven other varieties are permitted and no single variety can comprise more than 60% of the completed blend. There are 3 primary soil types: galets, crushed limestone, and sand. A fourth soil type is "terre blanc," which represents only a small area. There are approximately 45 producers and the cooperative. The wine is pink, lightness of color is not a goal. The aromas are red fruits (cherries and raspberries), minerals, spice, and roasted almonds. The acid and mineral are well balanced. The wines can age although most are consumed young.

The first flight of this tasting was chosen from the cooperative, Les Vignerons de Tavel, and was intended to highlight the effects of the soil types. The three wines were: Cuvee Tableau, 2009; les Lauzeraies, 2009; and Cuvee Royale, 2009. The aromatics of each wine reflected the soils and were quite different. les Lauzeraies was the most impressively aromatic with a wonderful mineral balance (grown on crushed limestone). Cuvee Royale, grown on galets, was my favorite as it had just enough of everything but not too much of a single feature.

The second flight was intended to illustrate the effects of variation in blend on the nature of the final wine. It also consisted of 3 wines; Domaine Moulin de la Viguerie 2009, Chateau d'Aqueria 2009, and Domaine Palai Mignon 2009 (this wine is not imported into the United States). In summary, the Domaine Moulin is 50% Grenache and 30% Cinsault- it is darker, fruity, balanced and fresh. The Chateau d'Aqueria has a higher percentage of white grapes thus is lighter in color; the predominant white grape is Clairette. The grapes are grown on a variety of soils and the wine is paler, floral, and well balanced. The final wine, Domaine Palai Mignon, is 65% grenache and is fruit forward with a nicely balanced acid.

Flight number three was again three wines, and was intended to illustrate "modern trends" versus traditional styles. Having visited one of these producers in 2008, this flight was particularly illustrative to us. Domaine Maby, Cuvee Prima Donna 2009: this is 70% grenache and 30% cinsault, and is fermented with a non-indigenous yeast which adds a banana like aroma. Of the Maby offerings we had in 2008 the one we least enjoyed was Prima Donna, maybe it was the bananas? The second wine was Chateau de Manissy, 2009. This wine spent some time in oak and has a spicy hint to it. It is quite nice. The final wine was Domaine de la Mordoree 2009 and this was our favorite of the flight; it is a traditional style and has a hint of tannin. We particullay were impressed by Mordoree as we have had and enjoyed multiple other wine styles and AOC's from this producer.

The final flight was two wines from Chateau de Trinquevedel, 2009 and 1989. This truly proved Tavel can age. The aromatics in the older wine were different and subtle, and the balance remained intact 21 years later.

The key thing to understand is that rose wines are not just a byproduct of red wine production. The timing of skin contact and the maintenance of appropriate balance in the wine is a true art. It is time we in the United States go beyond the concept of rose wine as kind of fruity sugar water called white zinfandel or merlot and recognize that these are dry and complex wines. Unfortunately, we live in a "wine challenged" state, I have not seen a single Tavel available this year in our stores (the closest was a rose Cote du Ventoux which sold out quickly). These are spectacular wines and Tavel will be one of our very early stops when we arrive in St Laurent des Arbres in 3 weeks- just no Prima Donna.

Kelly McAuiliffe is a spectacular speaker. He has an extensive backgound in wine and, we hope, will be available to guide us for a day or two in the near future. I viewed this as an ideal presentation, and the second half on Chateauneuf du Pape was even better! Great work.