This is an amusing item we found in Chateauneuf du Pape, but the only sizes were for kids.
Monday, January 24, 2011
hazard a guess?
This is an amusing item we found in Chateauneuf du Pape, but the only sizes were for kids.
Sunday, January 23, 2011
tavel in pictures, completed
Most of the literature describes 3 main soil types:light filtering sandstone, fluvial sand and shingle; chalky gravel and red clay, red clay and quartzite shingle. As the geologic map and the photos show, there are more. Many vineyards will have more than a single soil type as one walks up the slope. The Tavel website describes two main soils, galets and lauses (which are to the west, www.tavel.tm.fr), and goes on to describe pebbly sandy soil at the foot of the slopes. The cross section of this is well illustrated in the geologic map and in the photo of the hillside cut.
The grape types are: Grenache, maximum of 15% Cinsault, Clairette white and Rosé, and 10% maximum of Picpoul, Calitor, Bourboulenc, Mourvèdre, Syrah and Carignan. Maceration is allowed typically for 12 to 24 hours. Minimum alcohol is 11%, and some sources indicate that there is a maximum alcohol level as well.
This is true rose wine. It is fermented dry, if one closes their eyes the tastes are of red fruits. In the States, we have been trained that rose wine is like- white zin, with residual sugar making it sweet and fruity. This is a dry wine. Most are made to be drunk young, although a few are designed as gastronomic wines and are intended to be age worthy. The color is vivid pink, partridge eye. The nose yields flavors of ripe red fruits- strawberry, cherry, and raspberry with some white pepper notes. The taste is crisp with well balanced acid and mineral and a lingering finish of the fruit. Some of these wines, particularly those intended to age, undergo malolactic fermentation and have a rich creamy texture which coats the mouth.
Although we are conditioned to think of rose wines for summer pairings, I think they can be drunk year round. I do feel they are best with fresh produce and simply prepared meals.
The wines of Tavel have been identified as the "King of Rose" because they have over the years been favored by French royalty- from Phillipe le Bel, through the Avignon Popes, to Louis XIV. "Les habitants de Tavel n'ont ni commerce ni industrie mais ont une grande ressource dans la vente de leurs vins qui par leur grande qualité sont infiniment recherchés."
(Extrait des rôles de la capitation 1734)
Unfortunately, Tavel was one of the first French regions impacted by phylloxera. It recovered and in 1902 established a strong wine syndicate. In 1936 it was granted AOC status. Presently, there are approximately 40 producers of Tavel wine, comprised of predominantly independent vignerons with some large firms and a fine cooperative. I have had the good fortune of tasting the wines of over half of these producers as I attempt to understand the breadth of this commune. The majority make fine wines; unfortunately, it is not always possible to meet the individuals behind the wines.
There will be more to come on this project, which I think will take a few years. Now I have to understand why "blogger" published the post in mid sentence. Or, is it just another Vista quirk?
The grape types are: Grenache, maximum of 15% Cinsault, Clairette white and Rosé, and 10% maximum of Picpoul, Calitor, Bourboulenc, Mourvèdre, Syrah and Carignan. Maceration is allowed typically for 12 to 24 hours. Minimum alcohol is 11%, and some sources indicate that there is a maximum alcohol level as well.
This is true rose wine. It is fermented dry, if one closes their eyes the tastes are of red fruits. In the States, we have been trained that rose wine is like- white zin, with residual sugar making it sweet and fruity. This is a dry wine. Most are made to be drunk young, although a few are designed as gastronomic wines and are intended to be age worthy. The color is vivid pink, partridge eye. The nose yields flavors of ripe red fruits- strawberry, cherry, and raspberry with some white pepper notes. The taste is crisp with well balanced acid and mineral and a lingering finish of the fruit. Some of these wines, particularly those intended to age, undergo malolactic fermentation and have a rich creamy texture which coats the mouth.
Although we are conditioned to think of rose wines for summer pairings, I think they can be drunk year round. I do feel they are best with fresh produce and simply prepared meals.
The wines of Tavel have been identified as the "King of Rose" because they have over the years been favored by French royalty- from Phillipe le Bel, through the Avignon Popes, to Louis XIV. "Les habitants de Tavel n'ont ni commerce ni industrie mais ont une grande ressource dans la vente de leurs vins qui par leur grande qualité sont infiniment recherchés."
(Extrait des rôles de la capitation 1734)
Unfortunately, Tavel was one of the first French regions impacted by phylloxera. It recovered and in 1902 established a strong wine syndicate. In 1936 it was granted AOC status. Presently, there are approximately 40 producers of Tavel wine, comprised of predominantly independent vignerons with some large firms and a fine cooperative. I have had the good fortune of tasting the wines of over half of these producers as I attempt to understand the breadth of this commune. The majority make fine wines; unfortunately, it is not always possible to meet the individuals behind the wines.
There will be more to come on this project, which I think will take a few years. Now I have to understand why "blogger" published the post in mid sentence. Or, is it just another Vista quirk?
Tavel in Pictures
Most of the literature describes 3 main soil types:light filtering sandstone, fluvial sand and shingle; chalky gravel and red clay, red clay and quartzite shingle. As the geologic map and the photos show, there are more. Many vineyards will have more than a single soil type as one walks up the slope.
The grape types are: Grenache, maximum of 15% Cinsault, Clairette white and Rosé, and 10% maximum of Picpoul, Calitor, Bourboulenc, Mourvèdre, Syrah and Carignan. Maceration is allowed typically for 12 to 24 hours. Minimum alcohol is 11%,
Wednesday, January 5, 2011
trip through Tavel
no high speed internet so no photos yet. winter in the vineyards is a beautiful time.
the wine purpose of this entire visit to learn more about Tavel and hopefully to taste some 2010's which had recently been assembled; then there were those who thought it was all about new year's eve in paris. the celebration on the champs de mars lasted only a few minutes and the walk down the champs elysees was where the real party was. most important, making the january 1 train to avignon.
monday's plan was to begin at 1030 with a visit to Trinquevedel. i have looked forward to this for a number of reasons. first, Guillaume is exceptionally personable and communicates information about his property, his wines, and the region well. second, the property is beautiful and i expected would provide a great opportunity for pictures. Finally, i was looking forward to the wines.
Guillaume had surprises for us.
the first wine was his 2010 Tavel/Chateau de Trinquevedel which he had drawn off of the tank for us this morning. the wine had been assembled within the last month and is waiting to be bottled in march. the wine was a robust pink throughout the glass and clear. the aromas were of flowers and red fruits. the taste was flowers, red raspberries, strawberries, and a hint of white pepper. the finish was a wonderful balance of mineral and acid. it is young and will evolve further on the fruit and flowers side in the months before we see it. i look forward to enjoying this during the coming year.
the second wine was 2009 Tavel/Chateau de Trinquevedel. we have had this wine for the last 7 months and it was a favorite. it is a very similar pink throughout the glass and clear. the fruit and flower aromas are complex, with an enticing floral beginning followed by impressive fruit. the taste backs this up, and again there is a subtle finish of white pepper. the balance on the finish is crisp acid and mineral with a perfect balance. i am glad i have several bottles of this left in the cellar.
the third wine was Guillaume's gastronomic wine, Tavel/Les Vignes d'Eugene 2008. we previously have tasted the 2007 and have some of it in our cellar. this wine spends a year aging in cement tanks before being bottled. the wine is not as intensely pink toward the edges of the glass as the previous wines, probably because of the nature of grenache and its age; the color is beautiful. the nose is of red fruits with a background of flowers. the taste is raspberry, strawberry, and a touch of garrigue. the balance of mineral and acid is smooth. the wine coats the mouth with a feeling of fullness and lasts for several swallows. Guilaume explained that he allows this wine to undergo a malolactic fermentation. the wine is designed to age and for food. i am excited to see this again- i am planning the tasting this summer with the full list of wines above from my cellar.
as a surprise, Guillaume has produced a late harvest wine from a parcel of grenache blanc and clairette on a sandy hilltop. the grapes were harvested in mid-october with a single pass through the vineyard. some of the grapes had botrytis (he had identified the potential for this in the plot he had chosen). harvest was at 22%. the wine is a pale yellow and has a sweet and fruity nose. the taste immediately shows the honeyed nature of the botrytis, along with white fruits. the balance on the finish is a luscious blend of sweet, acid, alcohol, and fruit. and, the wine is called VENDAGE OUBLIEES, the forgotten harvest. this is a great aperitif or dessert wine and i look forward to watching it evolve. as it was just bottled there are no other reviews on it- you see it here first. Guillaume produced only 1000 bottle of this nectar, and 6 fewer remain as of this writing. this is a wonderful wine and i think represents a creative effort from the producer.
the final wine was 2009 Trinquevedel Cotes du Rhone Rouge. this is 100% grenache from Guillaume's plot in Lirac. the wine is a robust garnet color to the edges of the glass. it has a fruity nose and a light and fruity taste. the finish is smooth. it was not intended to be a wine to age, it is to drink now while the other's age and it meets the purpose for which it was designed precisely. this wine will change in the next 2 years as Guillaume has planted mourvedre in Lirac and once it is producing suitable fruit the wine will be changed into an AOC Lirac.
i am going to save other Tavel wines for a later post. the exceptional wines, extraordinary hospitality, and creativity shown at Trinquevedel merits this discussion be limited to the single producer. i purchased a number of wines to use for future tastings and enjoyment on this visit. remember, VENDAGE OUBIEES. photos to follow.
the wine purpose of this entire visit to learn more about Tavel and hopefully to taste some 2010's which had recently been assembled; then there were those who thought it was all about new year's eve in paris. the celebration on the champs de mars lasted only a few minutes and the walk down the champs elysees was where the real party was. most important, making the january 1 train to avignon.
monday's plan was to begin at 1030 with a visit to Trinquevedel. i have looked forward to this for a number of reasons. first, Guillaume is exceptionally personable and communicates information about his property, his wines, and the region well. second, the property is beautiful and i expected would provide a great opportunity for pictures. Finally, i was looking forward to the wines.
Guillaume had surprises for us.
the first wine was his 2010 Tavel/Chateau de Trinquevedel which he had drawn off of the tank for us this morning. the wine had been assembled within the last month and is waiting to be bottled in march. the wine was a robust pink throughout the glass and clear. the aromas were of flowers and red fruits. the taste was flowers, red raspberries, strawberries, and a hint of white pepper. the finish was a wonderful balance of mineral and acid. it is young and will evolve further on the fruit and flowers side in the months before we see it. i look forward to enjoying this during the coming year.
the second wine was 2009 Tavel/Chateau de Trinquevedel. we have had this wine for the last 7 months and it was a favorite. it is a very similar pink throughout the glass and clear. the fruit and flower aromas are complex, with an enticing floral beginning followed by impressive fruit. the taste backs this up, and again there is a subtle finish of white pepper. the balance on the finish is crisp acid and mineral with a perfect balance. i am glad i have several bottles of this left in the cellar.
the third wine was Guillaume's gastronomic wine, Tavel/Les Vignes d'Eugene 2008. we previously have tasted the 2007 and have some of it in our cellar. this wine spends a year aging in cement tanks before being bottled. the wine is not as intensely pink toward the edges of the glass as the previous wines, probably because of the nature of grenache and its age; the color is beautiful. the nose is of red fruits with a background of flowers. the taste is raspberry, strawberry, and a touch of garrigue. the balance of mineral and acid is smooth. the wine coats the mouth with a feeling of fullness and lasts for several swallows. Guilaume explained that he allows this wine to undergo a malolactic fermentation. the wine is designed to age and for food. i am excited to see this again- i am planning the tasting this summer with the full list of wines above from my cellar.
as a surprise, Guillaume has produced a late harvest wine from a parcel of grenache blanc and clairette on a sandy hilltop. the grapes were harvested in mid-october with a single pass through the vineyard. some of the grapes had botrytis (he had identified the potential for this in the plot he had chosen). harvest was at 22%. the wine is a pale yellow and has a sweet and fruity nose. the taste immediately shows the honeyed nature of the botrytis, along with white fruits. the balance on the finish is a luscious blend of sweet, acid, alcohol, and fruit. and, the wine is called VENDAGE OUBLIEES, the forgotten harvest. this is a great aperitif or dessert wine and i look forward to watching it evolve. as it was just bottled there are no other reviews on it- you see it here first. Guillaume produced only 1000 bottle of this nectar, and 6 fewer remain as of this writing. this is a wonderful wine and i think represents a creative effort from the producer.
the final wine was 2009 Trinquevedel Cotes du Rhone Rouge. this is 100% grenache from Guillaume's plot in Lirac. the wine is a robust garnet color to the edges of the glass. it has a fruity nose and a light and fruity taste. the finish is smooth. it was not intended to be a wine to age, it is to drink now while the other's age and it meets the purpose for which it was designed precisely. this wine will change in the next 2 years as Guillaume has planted mourvedre in Lirac and once it is producing suitable fruit the wine will be changed into an AOC Lirac.
i am going to save other Tavel wines for a later post. the exceptional wines, extraordinary hospitality, and creativity shown at Trinquevedel merits this discussion be limited to the single producer. i purchased a number of wines to use for future tastings and enjoyment on this visit. remember, VENDAGE OUBIEES. photos to follow.
Sunday, January 2, 2011
terroir terrier and pictures of soil
still, no high speed internet so the actual photos cannot yet be posted, i will do a new post with them.
we took the d4 to tavel this afternoon and then wen past the "back side" of chateau d' aqueria on our way to avignon. i did not have the gps on so i really cannot comment on the total elevation change but based upon the soils i think we saw every type of soil in tavel. it is absolutely amazing to drive less than a kilometer and go from galets to decaying limestone, to a slope wash mix. each soil contributes to different taste profiles in the grapes. looking at dirt and rocks as we drive has become a fascinating pastime.
on our way back the house we stopped at le cave des lirac/de saint laurent des arbres in st laurent des arbres to pick up wine for this evening and for our meal. (www.cavelirac.fr). this is the co-op for the commune and we have visited regularly for 6 years. the wines uniformly are very good and sometimes excellent. our choices today were: "arcane" 2009 blanc, a blend of grenache blanc, clairette blanche, and bourboulenc; lirac cuvee jean XXII 2007, grenache and mourvedre; and, monseigneur de la rovere, 2009, syrah and grenache with a small amount of mourvedre. le degustation, c'est gratuit. i think these wines will round out over the next several years and be exceptionally good.
after our out of body experience yesterday at gare de lyon, we are actually considering taking the tgv back to paris. the issue here is not what happens once one gets on the train but rather the process of boarding. paris was a confusing mess and i would hazard to say that amtrak keeps travelers more aware of the status of their trains. the electronic information boards were not working. the train was delayed by over 90 minutes and we were told to board the trail on voie 17 which turned out to be entirely wrong. in the end, we had a wonderful and efficient two and a half hour ride to avignon in spite of our trials and tribulations from 1045 until 1230. there was no information about the status of trains. i think this is an issue of infrastructure. once on the train it is amazing. the arrival in avignon was beyond easy.
we took the d4 to tavel this afternoon and then wen past the "back side" of chateau d' aqueria on our way to avignon. i did not have the gps on so i really cannot comment on the total elevation change but based upon the soils i think we saw every type of soil in tavel. it is absolutely amazing to drive less than a kilometer and go from galets to decaying limestone, to a slope wash mix. each soil contributes to different taste profiles in the grapes. looking at dirt and rocks as we drive has become a fascinating pastime.
on our way back the house we stopped at le cave des lirac/de saint laurent des arbres in st laurent des arbres to pick up wine for this evening and for our meal. (www.cavelirac.fr). this is the co-op for the commune and we have visited regularly for 6 years. the wines uniformly are very good and sometimes excellent. our choices today were: "arcane" 2009 blanc, a blend of grenache blanc, clairette blanche, and bourboulenc; lirac cuvee jean XXII 2007, grenache and mourvedre; and, monseigneur de la rovere, 2009, syrah and grenache with a small amount of mourvedre. le degustation, c'est gratuit. i think these wines will round out over the next several years and be exceptionally good.
after our out of body experience yesterday at gare de lyon, we are actually considering taking the tgv back to paris. the issue here is not what happens once one gets on the train but rather the process of boarding. paris was a confusing mess and i would hazard to say that amtrak keeps travelers more aware of the status of their trains. the electronic information boards were not working. the train was delayed by over 90 minutes and we were told to board the trail on voie 17 which turned out to be entirely wrong. in the end, we had a wonderful and efficient two and a half hour ride to avignon in spite of our trials and tribulations from 1045 until 1230. there was no information about the status of trains. i think this is an issue of infrastructure. once on the train it is amazing. the arrival in avignon was beyond easy.
lunch in avignon
sorry,no photos today because the high speed internet is out so this has to be posted via ipad. a post will come up with the photos in the future.
it is january 2 and we survived a couple of days of being over-fed in paris; then a new year's day departure from gare de lyon via tgv for avignon; and now we are here, at the home base of phylloxera in the 1860's. that says a lot when the topic is lunch in avignon. the mistral is howling. we took great photos from the "dom" today, and the north side was exceptionally blustery. jill decided as we walked back down past the palais des papes that soup d' oignon and a unique wine was in order.
the restaurant was "le domaine" and the soup was l' oignon des cevennes. it was a great soup and certainly fortified us.
the wine: my original choice was henri bonnaurd palette but they were out of it; i have never seen an aoc palette in the states. my second choice was a vacqueyras- Chateau Fontclos, Reflets de l'ame 2008. this was a great wine and paired well with our meal. the wine was red to the edge of the glass, the nose was red fruit and spice, and the taste followed through with wonderful cherry, raspberry, smoke, and soft tannins. this was a well balanced and well made wine, although i suspect it will be best over the short term. i always view vacqueyras as the "wild child" of the sacred trinity of chateauneuf du pape, gigondas, and vacqueyras; i look for the spice and rustic nature of the wines. this one did not disappoint although it was much more polished than what i expected. there were no rough edges to this wine. the year, 2008, was difficult but this wine certainly proves that a good producer can make an excellent wine in a problematic year. we were here for harvest in 2008 and certainly would never have expected this level of quality from the wines of that vintage. kudos to the producer.
it is january 2 and we survived a couple of days of being over-fed in paris; then a new year's day departure from gare de lyon via tgv for avignon; and now we are here, at the home base of phylloxera in the 1860's. that says a lot when the topic is lunch in avignon. the mistral is howling. we took great photos from the "dom" today, and the north side was exceptionally blustery. jill decided as we walked back down past the palais des papes that soup d' oignon and a unique wine was in order.
the restaurant was "le domaine" and the soup was l' oignon des cevennes. it was a great soup and certainly fortified us.
the wine: my original choice was henri bonnaurd palette but they were out of it; i have never seen an aoc palette in the states. my second choice was a vacqueyras- Chateau Fontclos, Reflets de l'ame 2008. this was a great wine and paired well with our meal. the wine was red to the edge of the glass, the nose was red fruit and spice, and the taste followed through with wonderful cherry, raspberry, smoke, and soft tannins. this was a well balanced and well made wine, although i suspect it will be best over the short term. i always view vacqueyras as the "wild child" of the sacred trinity of chateauneuf du pape, gigondas, and vacqueyras; i look for the spice and rustic nature of the wines. this one did not disappoint although it was much more polished than what i expected. there were no rough edges to this wine. the year, 2008, was difficult but this wine certainly proves that a good producer can make an excellent wine in a problematic year. we were here for harvest in 2008 and certainly would never have expected this level of quality from the wines of that vintage. kudos to the producer.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)